LAWNS
* Wait to seed and fertilize cool-season fescue or bluegrass lawns until the very
end of August and even the weather is warm. Cool-season grasses won't respond
when the weather is hot and dry.
* Now is a good time to examine turf for the presence of white grubs. With a heavy duty
knife or a spade, cut a 1 square-foot flap of sod and roll it back. Examine the
soil and roots in the top 3 to 4 inches. Repeat this process in several locations. If
you find an average of five or more grubs per square foot, treatment may be
justified.


ORNAMENTALS
* Stay on top of weeds and remove them before they go to seed.
* Reinforce supports on tall varieties of Dahlias and remove lateral flower buds to
increase size of the one remaining flower.
* Monitor trees or shrubs planted last year and provide a deep watering once a
week when rainfall is insufficient.
* Deadhead garden perennials by removing faded flowers and dying stems to
improve the appearance and possibly encourage a second bloom.
* Container gardens may need some late summer TLC and could benefit from
grooming and a dose of liquid fertilizer.
* Now is NOT the time to fertilize shrubs and trees as they slow down growth and
move towards fall leaf drop and winter dormancy. One exception is fall or
reblooming roses where a quick release fertilizer can provide a late season boost.
* Also HOLD OFF on major pruning of shrubs and trees until after frost or late
winter. Pruning now stimulates tender new growth that can be killed by the first
hard frost.
* Continue fungicide treatments on tree fruits. Follow label directions for pre-harvest
intervals.
* Watch for peach tree borers on peach, cherry and plum trees.
* After harvest remove all the old fruiting canes on Blackberries. Leave the new
shoots that started in the spring. Thin to four to six shoots per crown, training the
best shoots to the trellis.
FRUIT
* Continue fungicide treatments on tree fruits. Follow label directions for pre-harvest
intervals.
* Watch for peach tree borers on peach, cherry and plum trees.
* After harvest remove all the old fruiting canes on Blackberries. Leave the new
shoots that started in the spring. Thin to four to six shoots per crown, training the
best shoots to the trellis.


VEGETABLES
* Late blight on tomatoes and mildews on squash and cucumbers has arrived.
Continue fungicide treatments to prevent disease development. If blight appears,
remove plants immediately to protect remaining plants. Avoid working in the garden
when the plants are wet. It's easy to spread diseases during this time.
* Start planting fall vegetables anytime in August. Look for starts of cool-season
crops like cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower at tailgates and in garden centers.
* Sow seeds for lettuce, kale, spinach, turnips and beets. Keep seedbeds
consistently moist as seedlings emerge.

SCROLL DOWN TO READ MORE ABOUT DIAGNOSING GARDEN PROBLEMS!

Cool-season annual vegetables (cold-hardy when temperatures are below 70°F)
such as beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards,
kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabagas,
spinach, Swiss chard, and turnip are ideal for fall gardens.

Plant starts of broccoli, cabbage, Brussel sprouts are best planted now and are
becoming available in local garden centers. Other vegetables such as carrots,
lettuce and peas are easily started from seed.